Making a Trail

One of the ways to ensure success is by creating trails that
are not visible to passers by. This is easier in some places than
in others. Areas having dense undergrowth with lots of sunlight
can be ideal because plant growth is so rapid it will erase any
damage to the vegetation between trips during the Spring and
Summer. If you are growing plants in areas easy to spot trails
then make the path weave back and forth so it becomes difficult for
people to see a trail. Making a hidden trail to the site(s) is
important because it allows the grower to minimize getting ripped
off or worse, caught. People wander through undeveloped areas and
follow trails to nowhere all the time. Their access can be limited
through thoughtful planning of pathways and proper care in using
them. When you walk through your entrance, do everything possible
not to damage any of the foliage, especially toward the late Summer
and early Fall. At this time of the year, damaged foliage usually
will not regrow and this is when the plants need as much cover as
possible. There are two things to keep in mind when making a trail
to your site(s): 1) Can you see the trail you just made, if not
that's great, if so look for ways to cover areas that look like a
trail; 2) The more difficult it is for you to get to the site, the
less likely someone else will try.

1. Preparing The Soil:
(early March - Mid April depending on climate)
I suggest buying 40lb. bags of organic potting soil and mixing
this in with the existing soil. This soil is not often found at
your local all-purpose store so some searching may be required.
Potting soil is richer soil than commercial top soil so it goes a
little bit farther when mixed with the existing soil. Lime may be
necessary in areas with acidic soil and peat moss is a good
additive for soils with a clay type consistency. I avoid chemical
fertilizers, not just because I believe that organic farming is the
best way, but also because toxic waste is produced from the
manufacture of fertilizers.
It's also a good idea to put up a two foot high fence at this
time. This will keep small animals out and the use of dried blood
and/or human hair will fend off deer. Purchase a wire fence with
small gaps, 2 inches or less between the metal strands. Collect
enough sticks in the area to provide stakes that will support the
fence about every 2 feet. Outline the site with the sticks and tie
the fence to the sticks with string or wire. Cut the fence
endstrand and bend the strands that protrude from the top of the
fence out and down the outside to discourage animals from trying to
jump over it. Camouflage the fence and site with normal ground
debris as necessary before leaving.

2. Planting: (early April - early May)
There are different ways to go about planting:

A) The seed intensive method:
This method should only be used if you have an abundance of
seeds. The seed intensive method entails planting many seeds in a
small area. Its strength is that it can limit risk. When you
journey to your newly prepared site(s), the seeds and trowels are
hidden in your pockets. Plant the seeds about one half inch deep,
unless the soil contains high amounts of clay then only plant seeds
one quarter inch in the soil. If you setup small sites 3ft x 3ft
square, put in three rows with a seed every one and a half inches.
If you work out the Math this is roughly 72 seeds per site.
Unfortunately, many growers, especially beginners, do not posses
this many good seeds. If a grower creates four sites with this
many seeds he or she is almost guaranteed a harvest. Yes, there
will be some crowding and this is one of the drawbacks of using
many seeds in a small area. Also, figure around 50% of the plants
are going to be male so you must return to the site to cut out the
males toward the end of Summer. Once the males are removed from
the site, the females get more light and aren't as crowded. The
seed intensive strategy tends to produce smaller plants because of
crowding, but at the same time it helps ensure a harvest every
season. In the present day of infrared photography, I believe it
is important to have small sites to avoid detection from the air.
This of course means growers may have to create a series of small
plots in order to garner a year's supply of cannabis. If you grow
merely for hobby, sport, or experimental purposes, than one site
may suit you fine.

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